Fish and chips is one of Britain's best-loved takeaway meals, and a good chippy has a few fixed rules: crisp batter, thick chips, salt and malt vinegar. But the side dishes matter just as much, and they are easy to make at home.
Fish and chips has its origins in the 19th century, when fried fish, a trade often credited to Jewish immigrants, and chipped potatoes, popular in the north of England, were sold side by side in the same shops. By the early 20th century it was a national staple, and the side dishes grew up around it.
Tartare sauce is the classic dip. It is mayonnaise loosened with lemon and packed with capers, gherkins and fresh parsley, which gives a sharp, creamy contrast to hot fried fish. Make it ahead and chill it for an hour and the flavours come together nicely.
Mushy peas are the other half of the plate in much of northern England. Marrowfat peas are soaked overnight and simmered until they collapse, then finished with butter and a little mint. They are soft, savoury and slightly sweet, and they soak up the fish's batter crumbs.
Many other fish-frying cultures have their own answer. In Denmark, fried plaice is served with remoulade, a mayonnaise sauce with chopped pickles, herbs and a touch of curry powder. It is tangier and more savoury than tartare, and worth trying if you like your sauces punchy.
In Spain, fried fish and seafood are often served with alioli, a garlic and olive oil sauce made without egg in Catalonia. It is pungent and thick, and a spoonful of it turns plain fried fish into something that tastes like a holiday.
A few last ideas: a wedge of lemon, a splash of vinegar, a spoonful of ketchup, a pickled onion or gherkin on the side. Serve it all on the table and let everyone build their own plate.
If you are making it at home, a few details make the difference. Dry the fish well before battering. Fry the chips twice, once to cook them through and once to crisp them. Keep the oil hot, and drain on paper or a rack rather than a plate so the batter stays crunchy.
For a full chippy tea, put out all the extras: salt and malt vinegar, lemon wedges, pickled onions and gherkins, a pot of tartare sauce and a bowl of mushy peas. Some northern chip shops also sell a pot of curry sauce or gravy for the chips, and both are worth a try.