Risotto alla Milanese has been made in Milan since the 16th century, when a Flemish glazier working on the Duomo added saffron to his rice on a whim.
Milan's golden saffron risotto, slow-stirred to a flowing wave consistency the Milanese call all'onda.
Warm stock and steep saffron in 2 tbsp hot stock. Keep stock at a gentle simmer throughout.
Soften onion in olive oil and half the butter over low heat for 10 minutes. Do not brown.
Add rice and toast 2 minutes until edges turn translucent. Pour in wine and stir until absorbed.
Add stock one ladle at a time, stirring constantly and waiting until each ladle is absorbed. Add saffron liquid after 10 minutes.
After 18-20 minutes the rice should be al dente. Remove from heat.
Stir in cold butter and Parmesan vigorously. Cover and rest 2 minutes before serving.
Cold butter at the mantecatura stage is essential — it emulsifies into the starchy liquid to create the glossy finish.
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