Béarnaise is traditionally said to have been created in 1836 at the Pavillon Henri IV restaurant near Paris and named for Béarn, the birthplace of King Henri IV. It is closely related to hollandaise, with the vinegar and tarragon reduction as the difference.
The classic French steak sauce — a glossy, buttery emulsion of egg yolks and butter, sharpened with a tarragon, shallot and vinegar reduction.
Simmer the shallots, vinegar, wine, tarragon stems and peppercorns in a small pan until reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Strain and let it cool for a few minutes.
Put the egg yolks and the reduction in a heatproof bowl over a pan of barely simmering water. Whisk constantly until the mixture thickens and leaves a ribbon trail.
Take the bowl off the heat. Whisk in the warm melted butter a few drops at a time, then in a thin steady stream, leaving the milky solids behind in the pan.
Finely chop the tarragon leaves and stir them in. Season with salt and lemon juice.
Serve straight away, or keep warm in a bowl set over hot (not boiling) water for up to 30 minutes.
Keep the heat gentle — scrambled yolks cannot be rescued. If the sauce splits, whisk a teaspoon of warm water into a clean bowl and slowly whisk the split sauce back in.
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