Fondue was declared Switzerland's national dish in 1930 by the Swiss Cheese Union as a promotion campaign.
A pot of melted Gruyère and Emmental with white wine and kirsch, kept warm at the table for dipping cubes of crusty bread.
Rub fondue pot with garlic. Heat wine until just simmering.
Add cheese in handfuls, stirring in figures of eight.
Mix kirsch with cornflour. Stir into cheese. Cook until smooth.
Season with nutmeg. Transfer to table over a flame.
Dip bread cubes, stirring constantly.
Stir in figures of eight rather than circles — this prevents the cheese from separating.
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